It’s very rare that I take trips anywhere for the day on my own. Days out somewhere new have always been something I’d subconsciously reserved for friends and family, and never something I’d considered doing solo.
So it felt special (and almost momentous) to take a train from Kings Cross on a sleepy Saturday with a loose plan and a new place in mind to explore on my own! Half an hour of uninterrupted main character window-gazing and essential pastry acquisition- all with an excellent playlist and watching the London suburbs melt into countryside. I’m almost certain this is one of my favourite things to do.
…and the charm of all of this is how much there is to do without venturing very far at all. Taking a Thameslink train, I caught the 11:27 train Cambridge-bound-service with my-final destination being Knebworth, for a visit at the striking Knebworth House. Somewhere I’d heard lots about (namely from my mum and dad about a *certain* Oasis gig) but had never had the chance to visit before.
Situated a stone’s throw from Stevenage, and just over half an hour from central London; whether you are desperate to escape the city or fancy a quiet day exploring somewhere new- Knebworth House ticks both boxes, and is the perfect spot to spend an afternoon transported into a totally different world. (pulled for quote)
Arriving just before lunch time, I quickly popped to local coffee spot Lucas May for a cuppa (Caffe Vero also looked popular if you're hungry too!) It’s a small village but with a handful of cafes and shops (I also popped into the Noah charity shop as I can’t resist a nosey somewhere new) there’s enough lovely looking places for a spot of lunch or an all important pre-train cake stop.
After that, it was a short journey over to Knebworth House. The thing that strikes you as soon as you pull up to the grounds is the sheer scale of them. Acres of green space, dotted with trees and stretching for what seems like miles. Admittedly, when you hear about all of the iconic concerts held here it feels completely unsurprising; but it’s hard to imagine the fields filled with people when you see it in all of its calm beauty like this.
And there’s a lot to be impressed by with a day out to Knebworth. As a parent in particular, the marker of a brilliant day out normally consists of variety; and Knebworth really has that in spades. On the drive up to the house you pass Fort Knebworth; an adventure playground which includes everything from enormous astro and drop slides, a zip wire, interactive water play and climbing areas- which I’m sure could make up a very full fun day in itself. As well as that- for families and little people there is also a dinosaur trail with 72 life-sized dinos (I know!), wilderness area, bug hotel and giants chair (which I didn’t get to see, but sounds pretty exciting)! Oh, and the 250-acre park too for some serious picnic-ing and running around…
Being solo it was a slightly calmer itinerary for me, meaning I was able to arrive and stop by at the Garden Terrace Cafe in the barn for lunch. With a varied and delicious sounding menu (I tossed up between a smoked salmon bagel and egg and cress sandwich; one of life’s great choices)- I took my sandwich to go, and settled up on a bench next to the gardens which made it very hard to not romanticise my egg and cress sarnie (any excuse)!
Set over 28-acres, the gardens at Knebworth are far more than a scenic backdrop to the house itself. Having had gardens in the grounds since at least the 17th Century, early summer felt like the perfect time to wander amongst the roses and really enjoy the setting. At times I felt like I had slipped into Gardener’s World! With nothing to hear but the wind in the trees and birdsong winding through the breeze; the gardens here are a true place of peace so close to London. With tall Tuscan-esque Cypress trees flanked by blousy British rose gardens; every considered corner of the garden feels like you could be meandering through a different pocket of Europe. Whether that’s spotting ornate statues next to the perfectly manicured beds or exploring the lovingly tended herb garden- and very much wishing you had one this size in your own home; imagine the joy!
All this said, like any parent I couldn't help but think of how much my son would have loved charging about through the tree lined avenues. Playing a knight, riding on his toy horse and initiating an impressive game of hide and seek in the traditional hedged maze. Although the gardens have an air of tranquillity, they also have a true sense of magic to them; the kind that prods at the imagination and sweeps you away to times gone by- which is a very special thing indeed (and I know I’ll be coming back with him using their excellent Kids for £2 offer). (Pulled for quote)
Additionally, and for an extra injection of culture- before (or after) you go into the main house there is also currently a couple of brilliant exhibitions on next to the house; ‘On Location’ and ‘Live at Knebworth’- both celebrating the houses rich and colourful history as a filming location, and perhaps more famously, an impressive concert venue. With Oasis and Knebworth almost feeling synonymous with one another (as I’m sure the 250,000 fans who were they would agree), when it comes to iconic British concerts- the grounds have also played host to Queen, The Beach Boys, Led Zeppelin, The Rolling Stones, Robbie Williams, Pink Floyd, Elton John and Paul McCartney- and that’s just me getting started! To imagine Glastonbury sized crowds outside here as I gaze out post exhibition seems almost hard to believe; I’m sure the gargoyles on top of the roof have had some impressive front row seats…
Inside, as I’m sure you can imagine, is a banquet of interior opulence and elaborate history. From the moment you step inside it’s not hard to see why Knebworth has amassed such an impressive showreel (with The Crown, The Kings Speech, Batman- and most importantly, Paddington 2 all having occupied corners of the property. I knew that little bear knew a good day out)! (Pulled for quote)
It’s also worth noting that on some occasions, and on the day I visited, access to the full house is only available by a guided tour (which is included in your ticket price)- which although lasts an hour, makes for a truly fascinating glimpse into the history of the house. I can’t say I’ve been on all that many guided tours, but having someone walk you through the things you’d be likely to otherwise miss is a real luxury if you have the time. To be able to step into another world for a couple of hours; imagining the stories, conversations and follow the footsteps of those with such different existences is truly fascinating.
I won’t spoil all of the details (that’s for you to discover)- but if you’re into gothic history, literature (one of Knebworth’s owners, Edward Bulwer-Lytton famously authored the phrases 'it was a dark and stormy night' and ‘the pen is mightier than the sword’) and a family history that stretches over 500 years; spanning suffragettes to the ‘Stones (with visitors to the home including everyone from the actual Queen Elizabeth II to Queen, fronted by Freddie Mercury) there is plenty to get lost in and marvel at.
With a full day of sightseeing, sandwiches and soaking up everything this unique place has to offer- it was time to head back to the station and whizz back to the big smoke for the evening (but not before making a pitstop at local bakehouse Izzy's for a slice of cake for the train home. Anywhere that does school sprinkle cake gets an immediate thumbs up from me)… Until next time!
About the Author
Olivia Purvis is a writer, photographer, and content creator from London. Having written her blog, What Olivia Did for the last 15 years and published her debut book, The Insecure Girls’ Handbook in 2020- Olivia is passionate about storytelling and sharing beautiful places across the UK, as well as documenting travel and fashion.